Our first visit to Napa since the pandemic began

Sally and I have just returned from Napa.

The trip was originally supposed to happen in March, but California's shelter-in-place order went into effect the day we were scheduled to leave. So we spent the past few months monitoring the situation to decide when to return.

The decision wasn't solely based on what's allowed. Wineries have been open for outdoor tastings for several months. We also wanted to make sure it felt safe, and it was going to be fun.

Things finally felt right and a few weeks ago we re-booked our stay for September 1-5. It was definitely a different experience compared to past trips, but we learned that Napa is still a great place to visit.

How do you get to Napa?

Traveling to Napa was the most stressful part of the trip.

Normally, we would fly from our hometown of San Diego to Sonoma County Airport in Santa Rosa. Alaska Airlines has a nonstop flight, and the airport is extremely convenient to both the Napa and Sonoma Valley wine regions.

Unfortunately, we're not ready to fly. Airplanes seem like they might be relatively safe, but it's the people we're really worried about. People crowding in line at airports, people crowding onto the plane, and people crowding off of the plan.

So we decided to drive.

The trickiest part of driving is finding a place to stop, especially to use the restroom. Some gas stations didn't have their restrooms open. Others were too crowded or disgustingly dirty.

We stopped at a rest stop for a picnic lunch on the drive up and also on the way back. It was easy to snag a secluded picnic table both times. The restrooms were again the challenge, as a lot of people weren't wearing masks or respecting social distance. You definitely had to be on your toes!

Update 9/19/20: We’ve discovered that flying might have been the safest route for us after all. It’s apparently far more controlled and safer to fly on Alaska Airlines than it is to brave random road stops. This is not medical advice, and different airlines have different policies, so please do your own research and travel at your own risk.

What's it like in Napa right now?

The LNU Complex fires were still burning in Napa County when we arrived, but the flames and smoke were all east of the valley. We did smell a little smoke on our first day in town that had blown in from fires to the west, but that was mostly gone by the second day.

In many ways, the town feels normal.

We stayed at the Villa Murialdo condos in downtown Napa. This is one of our favorite places to stay. The location is within easy walking distance to many restaurants and shops, and having a kitchen gives you the option to cook your own meals.

Many restaurants were open, albeit with a few restrictions. Masks had to be worn unless you were seated, guests had to maintain physical distance from other parties, and most of the dining was outside. (Napa restaurants had just been allowed to open for limited indoor dining when we arrived.)

Sally and I decided to play it safe and eat all our meals at the condo, though we did get pizza from Azzurro one night. This was a mild disappointment because the restaurant is a favorite for good food and service, and the pizza wasn't quite as delicious when it wasn't served fresh out of the pizza oven. We’ll plan on going back when we can dine inside.

Wine isn’t the only attraction in Napa. There are a lot of great hiking trails, and we managed to get two hikes in while we were in town.

One was at Westwood Hills Park, which offers a great view of downtown Napa after a short hike up a steep hill.

The other hike was at Skyline Wilderness Park, where we tried out the Manzanita Trail and were rewarded with nice views of Napa Valley from the East.

How was the Napa wine tasting experience?

We felt extremely safe and had a great time.

There are a few restrictions on the normal experience right now. Tastings are conducted outdoors, and reservations are required. Wineries have limited seating and must maintain physical distance between parties. You must wear a mask at all times unless you are seated at your table.

We kept our masks on whenever our host approached us as a matter of common courtesy. If they need to wear a mask for our safety, why shouldn't we wear a mask for theirs?

All of the wineries we visited were chosen because we knew and trusted them. I verified each winery's safety procedures when I booked the appointment, just to give an added measure of confidence.

From a safety perspective, each winery did great! All location regulations appeared to be followed, our host at each winery was wearing a mask and kept their distance, and everything seemed to be very sanitary.

Our first visit was Cuvaison's tasting room in Carneros, which is the southern part of Napa Valley. We've been wine club members for years, and its wines have been the crowd favorite at multiple blind tasting parties we've hosted for friends over the years.

The seating arrangement was perfect, and our host was both welcoming and safety-conscious. There was only one other couple tasting while we were there, so we had plenty of space.

The next winery we visited was Robert Biale Vineyards, located in the town of Napa. This winery is famous for its Black Chicken Zinfandel, which has a great backstory. Once again, the setup was excellent, our host was terrific, and there was only one other couple tasting there.

Those two wineries capped off day one of tasting.

We visited just one winery on our second day, Storybook Mountain Vineyards. They are located at the northern tip of Napa Valley in Calistoga, and have a beautiful hillside vineyard surrounded by forest. We were seated under a grove of redwood trees and were the only ones tasting.

Resources to plan your trip

The local tourist bureau, Visit Napa Valley, publishes helpful coronavirus updates on its website. It's a good idea to check those before planning your visit.

You can also check out this article on planning your first visit to Napa.